Ardic Diesel Heater Manual

Installation, Service Or Repair

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We offer an extensive range of services including installation, servicing and repair jobs. Fill in the below form with as much detail as you can and we will quote you to get the ball rolling for your heating needs.

PLEASE NOTE THAT ALL VEHICLES WILL BE BOOKED INTO THE NEW MILTON BRANCH

Ardic Diesel Heater Manual

Installation

We have installed over 30,000 heating systems since 1979 and pride ourselves on our depth of knowledge, quality of work and care of our customers vehicles and vessels. We offer a full system design and installation service for original equipment manufacturers, business and private customers alike.

We only supply and install genuine Eberspacher heating kits using top quality components ensuring reliability and longevity of your investment.

Diesel

Service & Repair

At Krueger we offer a comprehensive heater maintenance and in-house or on-site repair service for all types and models of heaters from past to present day.

In our large fully equipped workshop we have all the latest diagnostic and analysis tools where your heater will be attended to by our manufacturer accredited and experienced engineers.

For servicing enquiries please complete and submit your information in the appropriate sections on the right, we will then acknowledge and contact you as soon as possible.

Heater installation and maintenance problems

Can I install the heater myself?

Yes the kits we offer have been compiled with an owner installation in mind. The electrical connections have pre-made “plug and play” connectors and the detailed installation manual gives a step by step guide to installation. At Krueger we personally inspect every installation kit before we send it out to a customer. However installing an air heating system will require numerous holes to be drilled (especially on a boat) and you may feel that our experienced installation engineers are better suited to this.

How much space will a heater installation take up?

The heaters themselves are compact and much of how much space they take up depends on the planning and positioning of the associated components in the installation. When we carry out an installation ourselves, minimising the impact on your vehicle/boat is paramount and we will position ducting, exhausts and looms securely out of the way as much as possible.

How noisy are the heaters?

The heaters are generally quiet in operation but as with any appliance with moving parts there is some associated noise. Noise can be reduced to a bare minimum by specifying optional exhaust and air duct silencers on installations.

What are the control options?

Basic controls provide on/off and temperature adjustment with more advanced controls offering 7 day timed programming, diagnostic function and even remote operation from smartphones.

Does my heater require regular servicing?

Servicing intervals generally depend on usage and the environment the heater is operated in. A heavily used heater running on poor quality fuel and in moisture laden conditions will need more attention over time. Generally as an guide to the internal condition of your heater – if your heater starts and runs without continual smoking (a small amount at start and shutdown is to be expected) it indicates there is good combustion and not excessive carbon build up. More importantly and especially on marine applications is the physical condition of the heater exhaust where breaks or corrosion can lead to unwanted fumes entering the boat in some circumstances.

My heater does not work, what is the most likely fault?

The common faults we see are as a result of insufficient battery voltage and overheating due to lack of coolant or damaged ducting.

When checking and measuring the voltage always check where the main dc positive (red) and negative (brown) connect to the heater making sure the heater is switched on at time of measurement.

Which heater is best for me?

In terms of vehicle air heaters, almost all applications will be best suited for a D2L kit. Only when very large vehicles are involved do D4L kits become better suited. Marine applications are different though. See the below size chart to decide what heater to get for your boat. The general rule of thumb is to have a smaller heater running on a higher setting than a larger one ticking over, as this avoids carbon build up.

Greetings from the non-insulated garage of my parents! I don't have any warm facilities to fix my car, so this will have to do. It was a nice warm day of -5 celsius when I decided that it is now or never (actually now or next summer) when I'm going to tear down the Ardic and see what's the problem.

Ardic Diesel Heater Manual Troubleshooting

Here's a nice post about removing and servicing Ardic. (Sorry, instructions only in Finnish).
Here's an explosion diagram of Ardic. Year is 2003, but seems to be identical to mine. Taken from Finnish Volvo forum, topic designated to Ardic problems..

Here's the big guy itself after removing the front bumper. Inferring from the rusted screws I would think this thing hasn't been serviced in years, maybe never during the 10 years this thing existed. There has been quite many previous owners and according to the owner history database, each of them had this car only little bit over 2 years.

After one hour of careful separation process in -6C, we can continue disassembly inside in room temperature!

Glow plug, water pump and outer shell removed.

Ardic
Testing the glow plug. Intact, as I suspected.

Ardic Diesel Heater Manual Parts

Inner shell shell removed, revealing chunks of soot attached to the walls
Here's the combustion fan motor, working normally. Little bit to the left under the cap resides the flame sensor that is directed toward the combustion chamber. I managed not to take any pictures from right angle, but there was little bit of soot there as well, blocking the view of the flame and causing the main problem here. After some cleaning, the flame sensor reads ~8 Mohm when in dark and around 430 Kohm when teased with direct light from a flashlight.

Quite a bit of soot also under (actually over, since the unit seen here is held upside-down normally) the cup and the turbulator. There's a shadow under it too, but most of it is soot actually.
Here's the CPM. It's funny feeling seeing it now here, like meeting somebody in real life after you have spent weeks chatting online :)
We know each other so well already, so there was no need to be embarrassed. Let's take the cover off and look if there are any unhappy burned parts. None found.


Only after putting the whole thing together again and looking this image more carefully when uploading this picture, I noticed this burned looking solder joint little bit from the center to the direction of upper left corner. Weird, since the heater seems to be working now. Maybe it was just the angle, light doing its tricks.
So, I cleaned the heater from all the soot and put the thing back together. Fingers crossed, I started the heater and behold, it works now! It seems that soot builds up as a result of imperfect combustion and eventually blocks the light/flame sensor. When this happens CPM thinks there's a problem with fuel delivery or some other functionality, and then stops the heater. Ardic does need service at least every two years, but some people service it annually, especially when there's a lot of short distance driving and the heater runs cold proportionally greater periods.
I didn't touch the water pump since it seems to be working and I don't have any spare rubber parts should the pump need any of them changed after opening the thing to prevent leaks. Anyways, I'm going to buy a new pump next summer when I'm servicing this thing again, just in case. It's interesting to see how much soot buildup will occur during the winter months with my personal driving style and preferences. From there it will be possible to estimate how long a relatively safe service period would be. It would be possible perhaps to estimate this based on the voltage reading of flame sensor! Of course, this would require reaching a steady state, maybe after running the heater for one hour until all the temperatures reach equilibrium and then check the sensor voltage. The nearer it is to the 2.5 volt threshold (explained in previous post) when the heater is on, the more the there could be soot covering the eye of the flame sensor. I will have to check the reading soon when it is still clean.
UPDATE: The flame sensor voltage will fluctuate between 0.6 and 1.0 volts when the furnace has been cleaned. Boys, when it starts to climb over 2.0 volts near the 2.5V threshold, it's time to grab your wrenches and mops and start cleaning!

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